Yufeng Pan(Clelo)

About

Reinvented ：Tanning Identity   鞣制本源

This project explores the concept of identity in art and design, highlighting the tendency to categorize works by similar characteristics, such as materials, which often leads to overlooking their diversity. To challenge this stereotypical thinking, I aim to stop defining rigid categories and instead promote a more open perspective on objects, maintaining their possibilities. By researching and improving various leather tanning methods, I strive to create a natural and environmentally friendly approach to developing a new era of slow fashion.

Leather has been a staple in my fashion career, known for its durability. To deepen my understanding, I experimented with tanning raw hides and explored innovative, eco-friendly tanning methods. I discovered that vegetable-tanned leather only comprises about 10% of leather products due to its longer and costlier process. Most leather is tanned chemically, which, while efficient, removes the leather’s original grain and is not environmentally friendly. This led me to focus on improving the sustainability, flexibility, and uniqueness of leather design through natural tanning methods.

I divided this project into two parts.

FORM AND FLESH  and    FINS AND FABRIC

The first part extended my previous anatomical fashion collection, where I experimented with tanning hides and incorporating anatomical structures to create soft sculptures. These pieces explore the complexity and beauty of human anatomy, transitioning between clothing, wearable sculptures, and art pieces.

The second part involved extensive tanning experiments to improve natural mixing and tanning methods. This aimed to control the transparency of fish skin while maintaining its resilience, making it a new, eco-friendly decorative material with broader applications.

Innovative natural leather tanning is crucial for a sustainable fashion future, embodying values, language, and aesthetics that resonate with a broader audience. Traditional methods like vegetable tanning (using plant tannins) and oil tanning (using natural oils) can significantly reduce leather production’s environmental impact. These methods produce biodegradable, safer leathers while emphasizing the quality and durability essential to slow fashion. Engaging communities in the design process is vital, achieved through collaborative projects involving designers, artisans, and consumers. Workshops and interactive sessions on natural tanning can foster ownership and a deeper product connection. Partnering with local communities for materials and skills supports local economies and preserves traditional tanning methods.

Promoting natural tanning and slow fashion responds to environmental degradation and cultural homogenization, advocating responsible, ethical fashion practices. Innovating with materials like fish skin, which is sustainable and aesthetically unique, allows the fashion industry to explore new creative possibilities and challenge traditional luxury and identity notions. This approach extends beyond fashion to interior design, automotive interiors, and art installations, expanding its influence and applications. Rethinking leather products’ identity encourages a deeper understanding of the material’s story and craftsmanship, contributing to a sustainable, culturally rich future.

In conclusion, innovative natural leather tanning methods protect the environment and cultural heritage while redefining objects’ properties through material innovation and community engagement. This approach supports sustainable fashion and provides inspiration for other industries, collectively advancing global sustainability and cultural diversity.

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