Yisai Luo 罗翊赛

History of Design (MA)

About

Yisai Luo is a fashion designer and pattern cutter from Wuhan, holding a BA (Hons) degree in Fashion Pattern Cutting from London College of Fashion (UAL). Before MA, He has experience working in womenswear, childrenswear, and costume design, as well as in museum historical military uniform replicas, etc. History research focuses on the design and production by early twentieth-century outdoor sports and protective clothing.

The dissertation, ‘The Making and Using of the Spine Pad: Side Effects and Ambiguities of the Medical Knowledge in Tropical Clothing 1850-1950‘ explores the relationship between imperial tropical medicine and British tropical clothing, focusing on the historical evolution of the spine pad. By using a biographical approach and examining artefacts, clinical records, medical journals, officers’ reports, diaries, procurement records, tropical guides, etc, it explores the different developmental paths of spine pad design characteristics. Reveals the main reasons behind the ambiguity and diversity of perspectives on tropical clothing and preventative measures.

Key issues include the ongoing debate over color and materials chosen like cotton and wool, despite extensive evidence, never reached a consensus, partly due to inadequate cross-disciplinary communication. The lack of specific research for particular locations, with a tendency to generalize all the tropical climates. Manufacturers exploited the fear of tropical diseases to market clothing broadly as suitable for all tropical climates ignoring the necessary background knowledge. The development of tropical clothing produced in Britain was intertwined with the complex climates of the colonies and the networks of the British metropole, further complicated matters. led to the spine pad being seen as pseudoscientific. The dissertation concludes with recommendations aimed at integrating social context and consolidating and unifying relevant expertise to improve future health and hygiene clothing integration.

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